Norfolk Broads, Solo tent box trip
There is nothing more satisfying than a trip that surpasses expectations, especially one booked at the last minute.
…and there’s nothing quite like waking up with your body clock, eating breakfast in the morning sun, whilst overlooking fields of gold with nothing planned for the day, other than, that is, to explore.
With Emma heading off to Manchester for the weekend, I decided to check out the weather app and head off in search of blue skies and, hopefully, a new location for some new experiences with the tent-box, bike and kayak.
My preference had been to head to the far north. However, wet weather fronts were battering my favourite Scottish region, so it had to be somewhere further south.
The Norfolk Broads looked a good bet. I’ve never actually explored this region, only having been here on a few occasions, a couple of times to visit friends (Emma’s university pals) and once to attend the wedding of a good friend.
The Broads, wetlands and marshes here are a Mecca for birds and other wildlife, so I was hoping to be able to spot some. And my wish came true!
With farmlands everywhere looking bone dry and burnt, everything under the tree canopy was incredibly green, with wildlife was in abundance. I’m told that the water table here is quite high, so the more established plants have had a fighting chance of survival following the sustained period of drought.
Here, I was never too far from a body of water, and regularly saw the flash of luminescent blue as a Kingfisher zipped past. I got to see wild deer, seals, herons and a rare butterfly too (far to quick for me to capture on film).
Booking this last minute and during the summer holiday period, I didn’t think I’d be able to find somewhere that would cater for a tent-box, but I was wrong. I found a lovely little campsite with two camper-van pitches. It was only £12 for each night, a bonus.
Moulton St Mary was my base, which I used to investigate what was on offer nearby.
I really didn’t have any plans, taking each day as it came. Here are my headlines…
The bicycle tour
I had no firm idea in mind, other than selecting a circular trip, taking in a few sights recommended by a number of websites and the local tourist board. Nothing too testing, just a simple 30-mile circular journey with plenty of stops.
Within minutes of setting off down the road from the site, Google Maps took me onto a cycle path (proper), off the main roads into some thick, dark lush vegetation.
My first pit stop was for a water break at Potter Heigham, a lovely little village, buzzing with day-trippers and tourists hiring watercraft and milling about. I spent a while exploring the pathways beside the bridge before moving on.
Horning is a little bigger. Lots going on here, and too many people for my liking, so I didn’t stay long, although I can see the attraction. The Swan pub is a major draw, along with a paddle-boat excursion. I spent 15 minutes watching fathers and sons catching fish, which seemed to happen on almost every cast. It was like the fish were throwing themselves onto the hooks.
But for me, Salhouse Broad and Ranworth were the highlights of the day. Stunning marsh walks at both, with access to some secluded spots where twitchers were lurking to snap their latest find. So much to see.
I even got to spot a large yellow butterfly, half the size of my hand, well, I couldn’t help but see it as it passed by a few feet away. Unusual, and with a very distinctive tail, I looked it up and found out it was a rare Swallowtail. It’s amazing what counts for excitement for an old fella these days.
A few years ago I’d have thought nothing of doing the cycle I did today, but at the end of the day my legs ached a little. And my arse! Well, I may need to get a softer saddle. Reminds me of the 1985 Yellow Pages advert…
The Kayak – Hoveton to Coltishall and back
With my legs aching from a day’s cycling, it was time to switch to using my arms! So out came the kayak. First time this year.
This turned out to be a fabulous day, helped enormously by the staff at the Ranworth tourist office, whom I met the day before. It was here I discovered that I needed a watercraft licence for my kayak (£11.45 for seven days), but they also advised me on the best route to enjoy the Broads and take in another area. I took their advice and headed for Hoveton.
I got up relatively early, bought my licence at the local tourist centre, parked my car a few yards from the local public slipway and set off. From here I headed northwards, my destination being a little pub called the Rising Sun, about four miles away in the village of Coltishall. Indeed, it is the first and only pub along this stretch of the River Bure.
The river was peaceful and surprisingly empty.
In the two and a half hours of kayaking I did before lunch, I recall only seeing fewer than a dozen boats and the occasional kayaker. Kayakers and paddle boarders were mainly concentrated at either end, which is kind of understandable, but by not travelling the four-mile route, I’d say they are missing out on the best bit.
The middle section of the journey was the most tranquil, with the calmest water and most wildlife. I didn’t attempt to photograph the Kingfishers, as they were either a small dot in the distance or completely out of sight before I had a chance to pick up my phone. I didn’t have my big camera with me!
Three quarters of the way into the journey, I kayaked past the village of Belaugh and St Peter’s Church, which is not far from the riverbank. Then back into wilderness before Coltishall came into view.
Lunchtime could not have come too soon, as my arms were starting to ache a little, along with my bottom, which was still recovering from the cycle yesterday!
The Rising Sun is perfectly placed for kayakers heading in from either the south (where I had come from) or further north, where people paddle in from Buxton or Lamas too. There are also plenty of people who travel here by car or walk. It’s a picturesque location.
I climbed out of my kayak, claimed a riverside table and ordered some food. If I’m honest, I was just expecting some average ‘pub fare’. That was until I looked at the plates of the diners I walked past – it’s quite obviously a cut above the norm.
I was going to order a different dish, but I saw (or rather smelt) a massive plate of lamb chops being walked past me and changed my mind at the very last minute.
WOW. Probably the best portion size and quality I have experienced anywhere, ever, and in a pub! I certainly recommend this place.
I discovered the next day that the pub is owned by the same family/company that owns four restaurants and pubs nearby, and they pride themselves on quality. I’m told that the Recruiting Sergeant (on the other side of the village) is the best. So I’ll have to try that one next time!
Evenings at the Campsite
I mentioned earlier that I was camped in one of only two camper-van spaces on the site. Thursday and Friday were relatively quiet, but on Saturday we were joined by a moderate influx of families on their summer break. I say moderate, as there was still plenty of space left, which I found surprising.
Pitched next to me was a family of four from Colchester; Brendan, Nina and their two boys, Lenny and Donovan. We got chatting, as often happens on campsites. I’ve found over the years that camping is a great societal leveller and an opportunity to meet like-minded people with the same life priorities and views on things generally.
This family have been holidaying here, in the same place in the Broads, for eight years and love it. After sunset we sat around an imaginary fire (no open fires permitted this year on account of the tinderbox environment), and spoke about everything, from politics to sport and music.
Then out came the guitars for a wee jamming session. Just my luck to be pitched alongside an entire family who can all play better than me!
By 10pm, we hit quiet hour and bedtime. I do love these early nights!
Oh, and it turns out that Nina is a radio DJ host for 106.6 FM Colne Radio, which probably accounts for the depth of musical knowledge from the entire family earlier on in our conversation. Turns out we’ve seen a lot of the same artists, with Lenny being a keen fan of a band I saw a few weeks ago at Tramlines (The Royston Club).
Winterton and Horsey
Brendan and Nina suggested that I ought not leave this area without sampling the coastline, especially as temperatures were heading towards 30 degrees on Sunday.
So, after packing up, I headed to the Winterton on Sea tiny car park, only to find it was “cash only”. I didn’t have any cash, so turned around, parked in a side street and cycled in.
What a beach.
Sand dunes give way to a huge expanse of sand and shingle beach, with sandbars, turquoise sea and plenty of space (once you head away from the car park area).
Indeed, I could cycle and walk for 20 minutes without seeing a single soul, but be warned: as you venture towards Horsey, swimwear appears to be optional. And if you go for a swim, don’t be surprised to look up and see a seal swimming beside you!
Seriously, I have never seen so many seals in one place, so close to humans.
Between Horsey Gap and Horsey Beach was a colony of seals, probably one hundred strong, with dozens of pups and a huge collection of both common and harbour seals.
I then made my way back to the car via the famous local windmill, and headed off for my next campsite, on the edge of Norwich.
My Cousin Margaret – Waldringfield
Now, I have a huge family, with cousins dotted about all over the place, but we don’t get to meet up too often. Well, other than births, marriages and funerals…
In recent years, I’ve made a concerted effort to keep in touch. It’s much easier these days with WhatsApp and social media.
So it was nice to discover that Margaret was free on Monday for lunch on my way back down to London. She lives near Harwich but chose to meet up at a pub called the Maybush Inn, overlooking the River Deben.
We chatted for almost three hours, catching up on each other’s lives since our last meeting, getting on for a decade and a half ago, we had lots to talk about.
Margaret is a little older than me, but doesn’t look it, and is enjoying her retirement, with new experiences and travels being right up there on her agenda too.
We parted with a promise not to leave it so long until next time…
Summary
So all in all an amazing trip to a beautiful corner of England. I’ll definitely be coming back with Emma. so much more to see and do. I feel like I’ve only just scratched the surface.
Hints and Tips
Campsite 1 – Old Vicarage Campsite Acle Norfolk. The cost for one night was £12 for a camper-van. They charge per person so it’s incredibly good value for money when traveling solo, and great facilities too.
Campsite 2 – Plum Camping, Wroxham Road, Norwich. Huge field, 15 minute cycle to the centre of the City, lots of great facilities including communal fridge, freezer, and very good individual showers and toilets. The price here was only £15 for the night.
