Three nights in Valencia – solo trip
Emma booked a getaway to Rhodes with my sister and our mutual friend Meera. They’re off to visit my nephew who lives there. So, I thought I’d head off for a few days on my Jack Jones. Somewhere, anywhere…
I really wasn’t fussed about where I went so long as it wasn’t too far, so I searched all the Wizz Air flights out of Gatwick and Luton. My only proviso for this trip was timing, I didn’t want a flight that was too early or too late, or required an overnight stopover in Luton.
In the back of my head, I remembered that my sister and my parents had raved about Valencia, so I looked that up. Luckily, the flight times were spot on: a 10:30 departure from Gatwick on the Tuesday and a mid-afternoon flight home on Friday. Three nights, leaving me with two full days to explore – perfect!
So, onto the trip
València was everything I hoped it would be: a vibrant city which attracts lots of Spanish, it doesn’t appear to be somewhere that the Brits flock to in great numbers. Plenty of Americans though. Lots of them!
That said, I did bump into a few peeps from back home while here. More on that later.
When I arrived, I checked out the price of a return rail ticket from the airport (around €12 return). It is only a short 30 minute trip by rail to the heart of the city’s. However, for €16 more I was able to buy a 72-hour City Pass which also provides unlimited rail, bus and tram travel, along with free entry and discounts to museums and a host of other venues. A bit of a no-brainer, so I got one. I bought it at the airport but via their website, which gave a further 10% discount. All quite straightforward and more about that in the hints and tips section and to find the link.
The Cathedral
The Cathedral was my first stop, which, with the City Pass, was only €8 entry as opposed to €12 without. They provide a multilingual guide which was useful for explaining its history. It’s easy to lose an hour in here.
Mercat Central València
When in Valencia, a visit to the market is a MUST. It’s huge, absolutely huge, and still operates as a working market for locals, although it also draws in tourists in large numbers.
Now, I’ve been to a few indoor markets in different countries over the years, but this one takes some beating.
I had breakfast here on two mornings and wandered around the fruit, meat and fish stalls, all of which looked amazing. The colours and smells wow… BUT – One lady ordered eels, and the poor little critters were plucked from their watery holding pool where they were wriggling about no doubt contemplating their limited choices. They were dispatched quickly (head chopped off), whilst their bodies still writhed about as they were being gutted. Hmmmm… methinks Emma wouldn’t like this place much!
Llotja de la Seda
Wow. This place looks like a place of worship, but isn’t and never has been. A purely secular facility built by Muslims, with Jewish funds, for predominantly Christian users, it’s a real mixture of influences and design.
Stunning. The eight arches resemble palm trees and the ceiling on the upper floor is awesome.
Craft Beer at The Market Pub
I spent days simply wandering the city and taking in the sights, and by a stroke of luck I ended up at a craft beer bar called The Market. It was here I met up with some lovely peeps who were also seduced by the hops.
Simon and Sue from Nottingham were chatting to a lovely couple from Portland, Oregon, across the bar. At some point, Simon beckoned me over when he saw I was drinking on my ‘lonesome’. Well, someone has to be charitable to the London lad traveling solo.
I actually met up with Simon and Sue on two nights and bumped into them on our travels around the city – its a small place.
Costelló de la Plana
On my second morning, clouds had settled over Valencia, so a quick peek at my weather app showed the cloud line breaking about 19 miles north of the city. So guess where I headed for the morning?
A quick walk to the train station and a ticket to Castelló de la Plana where the sun was shining.
Now, this place isn’t exactly a tourist mecca and, to be honest, I can see why, but it does have a lovely beach, a nice bar and some interesting museums. So that’s where I spent the morning and early afternoon.
I visited a great museum and wandered around the centre for a bit before heading to the beach and a small beach bar at the nearest point. Plenty of people were swimming but, on this occasion, I didn’t join them.
Agua de València & authentic Paella Valenciana
I headed back to Valencia for the evening and more sightseeing. I ended up seeking out one of the best places in Valencia to try their local tipple. It’s called Agua de València, but it ain’t water…
It’s made from freshly squeezed orange juice, sparkling cava, vodka and gin. I didn’t go to the place where it was invented, Café Madrid (although I did consider it, walking past it), but instead took some advice from a local and went to Café de las Horas.
At first glance, it looks rather bling (rather like I’d imagine Donald Trump’s living room would be decorated), but it was certainly an experience… an Instagrammer’s dream!
I finished the night with a paella (at Barravas restaurant) before another craft beer at The Market Pub.
Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias
This place just has to be seen to be believed. Built in the 1990s, it’s only a short bus ride out of the centre and a 35-minute walk back through the former riverbed.
The riverbed is now a huge municipal park after the River Turia was diverted many years ago to reduce the flood risk to the city. However, they couldn’t escape the extensive floods a few years ago when my parents visited this city. Their pictures weren’t as calm and included overturned cars in their hundreds. But today was perfect.
The City of Arts was a risky venture when built and was plagued by political infighting between political parties and central and local government. However, it’s now a massive tourist draw and one of Spain’s top attractions.
It really is a really awesome place to spend a day and take your time.
The Water Tribunal of the Plain of Valencia
Every Thursday, the world’s oldest institution of justice convenes at the Apostles’ Gate of Valencia Cathedral. So I just had to go and take a peek.
Half an hour’s wait, anticipation, and then, wow, a dozen old men rock up, one of them mumbling something in Spanish and the others mumbling something back… then it’s all over.
The dozens of kids in front of me were looking at their teachers as if to say, “Is that it? Is that what you brought us here to see? C’mon…”
But I guess there were no disputes between the landowners and farmers this week.
I’d like to come back during a time of drought when one of the trustees starts shouting at his contemporaries… perhaps a fist fight! Ho hum we can live in hope!
Well, at least I can say I was there and saw it!
Torres de Quart and Torres de Serranos
Wow. These two impressive structures are all that remain of the old city walls. The former was my favourite as it still retains damage from past conflicts and, on my visit, was open, allowing me to climb the stairs and enjoy a great view across the city.
Cafe Bar El Torino
Definitely NOT on the tourist trail is this functional bar and cafe on the edge of the city, which I only came across because I couldn’t find anywhere in the centre which was showing the opening match of the World Cup. The bars in the tourist quarter were either too full or not showing the game.
So I went in search.
I ended up finding a bar with a TV, but it also had a local group of musicians camped up.
Absolutely lucky find. The chap in the green teeshirt was orchestrating things nicely. He could play multiple instruments and barked instructions to the others like a sergeant major!
Now this isn’t the kind of place I’d usually recommend, but I’d have quite gladly paid to listen to this performance all night, and I’m guessing they’re here every Thursday.
The journey back home
The return flight was perfect in terms of timing. Departing at 2.35pm it gave me enough time to wander the city after breakfast at the Mercat Central, hop on a 30 minute train, check into the lounge and neck a few glasses of fizz. Nice and leisurely start to the day, and journey back home.
I did some last minute logistical checks with my Sheffield friends who I’m meeting tomorrow and Hannah kindly offered to pick me up from the airport.
This trip has been amazing. If I’m honest I’d have preferred to do it with Emma, but she’s sending me pictures of her on a boat in Greece with my sister so…. We will just have to return together!
Velencia is a city that exceeded my expectations, but, reading what others have said about this place it really does deserve to be called one of the Mediterranean’s best kept secrets. The Spanish have kept this place to themselves and I can see why!
Hints and Tips
The price was reasonable: £20.99 per flight, and no extra bags were required as I managed to squeeze everything I needed (and more) for this trip into my 20cm x 30cm x 40cm hand luggage allowance. With temperatures hovering between 25 and 27 degrees, no jumpers or coats were needed either. Usual tip via WizzAir.
I found accommodation smack bang in the centre of the old town for £38 per night. This was a private room with a single bed and en-suite shower – spot on! I also booked the accommodation with Booking.com via the Wizz Air app, which means I’ll get a further £10 off future flights (7–10% credit). Crazy!
Pensión Moratin, 15, Ciutat Vella, 46002 Valencia, Spain – A family run budget friendly guest house, right in the centre of the old town with easy access to everything.
The Velencia 72 hour pass is an absolute bargain, worth picking up at the airport as the rail fare (plus bus and tram) is included. It also provides free and discounted access into a host of venues, so soon pays for itself. BUY IT ONLINE via the link and you get 10% off the cost on the day. All transport is brilliant here, runs on time and/or too frequent to worry.
As the season is starting to get underway, I pre-booked into the No.1 Airport Lounge in the South Terminal and enjoyed an stress-free complimentary breakfast and unlimited beverages. I just love this perk. I get to drink like a fish and eat more food than Billy Bunter, all courtesy of my bank. I took my usual seat overlooking stands 10–26 and settled in.
I also used the lounge at Valencia airport on my return trip. No need to rebook so zero cost.
Stroke of luck – Hannah picked me up from the train station on the way back but going out my journey was less than 45 minutes. I simply hop on the 433 bus, which is a two-minute walk from our front door, and jump on a Thameslink train to Gatwick from East Croydon – never seem to have to wait long. The travel cost is under £6. Oh, and here is the lucky bit, there’s a story behind that too.. The £6 travel cost was effectively free, on account of an accounting error with my Oyster card a few months ago. TfL had mistakenly added almost £80 to my card. When I noticed this, I called them to inform them in an effort to give it back. They could see exactly what had happened and admitted that the error was theirs, but informed me that there was no technical way of transferring the money back, so I could keep it! Wow, not often that happens. It paid to be honest, as to have kept stum knowingly would have been wrong.