Autumn Equinox – Stonehenge
Now, I don’t profess to know a huge amount about the pre-Abrahamic world of the British Isles, other than what I learned in Religious Education (RE) at school and what I’ve picked up on my travels. But what I do know is that there was a rich, indigenous Pagan spirituality that existed across these islands long before Christianity replaced it, often at the end of the sword and the threat of violence or torture.
I’ve always shown more than a passing interest in these native traditions.
From what I can see, there were multiple strands and branches of Paganism across this corner of Europe, from the Celts of these islands to the Norse of nearby Scandinavia.
Similar traditions existed in all countries across Europe, but like here, most were replaced by one or more of the “big three” monotheistic religions: Christianity, Judaism and Islam. There’s a kind of irony that these too, despite their Abrahamic ties, have their own internal cults, strands and divisions; each believing that the others are completely wrong!
It’s absolutely bonkers when you think about it…
So, having visited many churches, mosques, synagogues and gurdwaras over the years, I thought it was about time I got my arse out of bed early and visited England’s most famous indigenous site during one of the most important dates in the Pagan calendar… the Autumn Equinox.
Early, because it meant getting there before sunrise in order to join hundreds of people, many of whom were tuned into our ancestors’ traditions, while others, like us, were simply curious onlookers.
So, a 3am alarm clock and a trip around the M25, down the M3 and along the A303 until we reached this unmistakable 4,500-year-old stone circle in Wiltshire.
A line of cars snaked into the visitors’ centre and, after parking the car, we walked the mile-long path into the stones.
Being a date of sacred significance, full access to the stone circle is granted for a short period either side of sunrise, which today was at 06:54. Access is usually limited to the pathways outside of the circle, or to if you want to get up close, its the subject of a hefty fee and guided tour.
Emma’s face was a picture when I suggested it, but I think she is incredibly happy now we’ve done it. It’s one of those experiences most people miss, but really ought to be done at least once in a lifetime. That said, I think once wont be enough for me!
We arrived at the stones about 30 minutes before sunrise (around 06:25), and spent the next two hours simply wandering around the site, taking things in.
We witnesseed multiple groups of worshippers, some small and others much larger, chant, sing, pray and meditate their way up to and beyond sunrise.
The fragrance of multiple herbs (of every type) was in the air, and many offerings were being made. Many of the chants involved celebrating a strong connection to nature, the broader universe and humanity, as well as giving thanks for and recognising this special period of harmony, where daylight and nighttime are equal.
It is also a time to show gratitude for the harvest, which explained why many people were wearing autumn colours and carrying or wearing acorns, corn, vines and ivy.
What I loved about the whole experience was the tolerance and respect shown by everyone attending. People from different walks of life, ages and nationalities rubbing shoulders with others who were dressed in some pretty unusual and whacky attire.
That said, for us, it was pretty much home from home, much like many of the festivals we attend.
Of course, as you’d expect these days, the Instagram crowd were there too, all made up to the nines and wearing costumes that must have cost a packet. But they were in the minority and, if I’m honest, it was kind of nice to see this little corner of Wiltshire getting a bit of social media attention.
Most people will be aware that there is both a public bridleway and footpath very close to the site, which English Heritage has been trying to close off for years (thankfully unsuccessfully). As we crossed the bridleway about 30 minutes before sunrise, it was clear from the strobe lights and heavy bass that a few parties had been in full swing until the very last minute. I had an unexpected FOMO moment. I think I may camp here overnight next time in my tent box, in order to expand the whole experience!
Anyway, a great way to spend a morning, which I’d highly recommend, especially at the Equinox celebrations, which are a little more sedate (with more elbow room) than the summer and winter Solstices.
oh, if anyone knows the chap in the picture below, please pass it on… He wanted a copy, shared his phone number and asked me to send it to him, but I appear to have written it down incorrectly.
Happy Autumn Equinox everyone!
Oh and finally, thank you to Carla for the AI image below, very funny! Perhaps one day… lol
