HISTORIC YORKSHIRE
It’s my first time exploring this region with Emma. We shall be back! Four days is nowhere near enough time to do anything other than scratch the surface!
DAIRY COTTAGE – BOYNTON HALL (NEAR BRIDLINGTON)
Perched on the edge of the Boynton Hall estate is a quirky little cottage overlooking woodlands and open countryside. Originally built in 1770 as a dairy, it was converted into a small one-bedroom home a few years ago by its current owners. It was the perfect place to base ourselves for the week.
Boynton Hall itself is a rather impressive-looking structure dating back to the fifteenth century, with an interesting history weaving through the turbulent times of the Reformation and English Civil War. It’s been renovated many times over the centuries, even being converted into flats around 50 years ago, but is now restored to its original purpose.
It was a relatively last-minute booking for us and being at the very start of the season, we were only the second couple to rent it this year. We lucked out with some great weather.
I had the good fortune to meet the lady of the manor, Mrs Marriott, who was walking her dog around the grounds on our second morning. She was enthusiastic to the core, and we ended up discussing a great deal, including the difficulties she’d recently had renovating the 400-year-old bridge which sits over the chalk stream river cutting through the land. I’d noticed it was a chalk stream when we first arrived, and it turns out it’s the most northerly of its kind in Europe.
ROBIN HOOD’S BAY – RAVENSCAR
Now, like most people, I had heard of this bay. It sits at the eastern end of England’s famous “Wainwright Coast to Coast Trail”, starting 192 miles west of here in Cumbria. I’d also heard of it because of its beauty… which didn’t disappoint!
Being early in the season, we found a parking space easily, walked through the picturesque village and onto the beach. The tide was out, so we wandered along the shoreline until we reached Boggle Hole, where we joined the footpath at the top of the cliffs, which would have taken us to Ravenscar had we continued.
However, at the midpoint, we decided to double back towards Boggle Hole and head for a spot of lunch at the Youth Hostel Association facility, which was ideal in both quality and price. The log burner was throwing out some much-needed heat, as despite the sunshine, the wind was whipping in from the North Sea and it was decidedly chilly!
On the way back home, we headed for Ravenscar and wandered along the clifftops, looking over to the other side of the bay where we had spent most of the day. Next time, we’ll do as my youngest daughter suggested, drop off our cycles at one end, walk one way, and cycle back along the Cinder Trail, which is built along the course of an old railway line.
WHITBY
Whitby was everything I thought it would be, a gorgeous old fishing port, full of character, cobblestone streets, fish and chip shops, and tea rooms.
Of course, there are rows of amusement arcades (if that’s what tickles your fancy)… but we simply wandered the town and braved the winds along the very exposed navigation piers. The place was pretty much empty when we arrived, but as the temperature lifted and the cloud departed, the town became a little busier, it was Easter half term after all!
Of course, we couldn’t leave without a visit to the Abbey, which has been on this site since 657 AD, but has seen various iterations, having been demolished by Vikings, stripped by Henry VIII, and bombed by the German Navy (in WWI).
THE CITY OF YORK
We had a great day in York, taking advantage of a weather window which had unexpectedly arrived. We pretty much spent the entire day wandering the old, narrow cobblestone streets, watching street entertainers, and exploring the impressive city walls. It really is one of the best-preserved medieval city centres I’ve visited, with so many nooks and crannies to explore.
Six hours passed before we knew it, and the temperature lifted, meaning we needed to shed layers. A stunning city!
YORK CATHEDRAL
We thought twice before entering the cathedral as the entrance fee was £20 each, but as it turned out, it was money well spent. We joined a small walking tour included in the price, delivered by an incredibly enthusiastic and knowledgeable lady who kept us all entertained during the hour-long tour.
I learned so much more than I expected and spent longer here than I think I’ve ever spent in a cathedral.
YORKSHIRE WOLDS WAY
ABANDONED MEDIEVAL VILLAGE OF WHARRAM
I was advised to look out for walks along the Wolds Way, so when I saw one that encompassed an abandoned medieval village, we just had to take a look.
Local enthusiasts spent 50 years restoring the area and making it safe for visitors, and it is now an English Heritage-managed site. The village is thought to have had a turbulent past, with the Plague and raids from outside, but it also has a spooky legend, it is thought to be the village of the living dead! Archaeologists uncovered a mass pit at one end of the village, with evidence of dismembered bodies having been previously exhumed and reburied. No one knows the reason, and on the tranquil day we visited, it’s a past that is hard to believe.
A 4000-YEAR-OLD PAGAN MONOLITH
THE TALLEST IN THE UK
A couple of miles from Boyton is the tiny village of Rudston, which has the tallest prehistoric standing stone in the UK.
It stands alongside a Christian place of worship, which apparently is not uncommon, as churches were often sited on places of pagan historical significance. Still, it looks weird!
RUGGED COAST AND WILDLIFE
I don’t think I have ever seen so many seals in one place as here at Flamborough Head, an eight-mile-long promontory. It is also a haven for birdlife, we saw so many guillemots and razorbills too.
At one time I counted 18 seals, it was probably more.
MEETING FRIENDS AND FAMILY EN ROUTE
As we were heading ‘up north’, we visited a few people, including Mark and Karen. Mark’s an old workmate of mine I first met in 1984. Although we last met about 18 months ago at a reunion, it was lovely to catch up one-to-one, introduce him to Emma, and for me to meet Karen. We had a blast.
Emma also met Alan, an old workmate of hers. They were lecturers in law together for several years. We met Alan and Ros on Driffield for lunch.
Both Alan and Mark are southerners who have fallen in love with Yorkshire, deciding to up sticks and relocate to this beautiful corner.
We also met up with two of Emma’s cousins, Jennifer on the way up, and Neil and his family on the way down. Neil and his wife Marie were joined by Glen, their son, so it was a great family catch-up for Emma.
Hints and Tips
ACCOMMODATION:
We used one of the Holiday Property Bond (HPB) Tenancy properties for the first time.
Now these are different from the standard HPB venues we’ve used, inasmuch that they don’t come with the usual trimmings (swimming pools, saunas, gyms, tennis courts etc), are not ‘owned’ by the organisation, but often by bond holders themselves. They are advertised on the HPB website and have to meet minimum standards.
This one is owned by Boyton Hall, and is on the grounds of a huge private estate.
The big benefit to Tenancies isn’t that they are ‘points free’.
So we booked this wonderful little cottage for £68 per night (£34 each).
It was awesome, living area, dining room, kitchen, two bathrooms, and a large bedroom (with twin beds).
The layout was a little odd being on three levels, as it used to be the estate dairy and was built in 1770, so when it was converted it had to meet all shed load of planning rules as its a listed building. But for us it was just what we needed, and for a short 4 night stay was ideal.
HPB link here if you are interested.