Mallorca – Balearic Islands (Nov 25)
Even at this time of year, when many coastal towns have shut up shop for the winter, it’s easy to see why Mallorca is so popular.
It was my first visit here, so my expectations were shaped a little by social media: a mix of unfriendly locals, brash German tourists, canny Dutch travellers and drunken Brits on package deals. In reality, it was nothing like that. Instead, we found a little corner of paradise full of hidden gems and peaceful corners.
Coming out of season definitely helped. OK the wind may be cooler and there’s the odd passing shower, but when the sun shines (as it often does) it’s warm, bright and blissfully quiet; empty roads make exploring by hire car an absolute joy.
We had booked an HPB complex on the west of the island a few months ago. Our spacious, south-west-facing two-bedroom apartment overlooked a rocky cove framed by Morro de s’Aritja on one side and Punta de Andritxol on the other.
Each morning the water shimmered in the sunshine; each evening the rocks glowed under breathtaking sunsets, and with accommodation costs at £136 per person for the entire week, it would’ve been rude not to come (details in hints and tips).
Our days quickly found a rhythm. After breakfast, we’d take a dip into the pool, relax in the sauna, or play tennis, we’d then head out to discover a quiet village, sweeping viewpoint or secluded cove.
I do love HPB venues – this is my fourth this year.
Emma’s mum, Doreen, came with us – she doesn’t let age get in the way. She joined us for every village, vista and coastal wander. If I make it to 90 years old and I’m as fit and healthy as she is, I’ll consider myself very lucky indeed. She still has a genuine appetite for travel, good knees and hips, and no major ailments; long may that continue – she even joined us for tennis.
Hannah also came along; the offer was far too good for her to turn down. Come to think of it, I’m not sure we had a choice! I do occasionally remind her that at 24 she’s well beyond the age I stopped tagging along on holidays with my parents… but apparently those were the “olden days” and times have changed – that’s me told.
She has a habit of putting me back in my box!
Evenings were simple and fun. The TV went on only twice. Most nights we played old-fashioned games that had us howling with laughter.
We started our trip in style, booking into the airport lounge at Gatwick (see hints and tips), where Doreen enjoyed a Bucks Fizz Breakfast.
Emma, Doreen and I spent one extra night in a hotel in central Palma before being joined by Hannah at the HPB apartment near Port de Mar.
We then set off to explore the island.
Port de Sóller
A short twenty-minute drive away, this scenic cove and marina made for a lovely afternoon. It’s home to Mallorca’s first electric tram, built in 1913. Locals recommend taking it from Sóller down to the port and grabbing a taxi back. It’s more cost effective that way.
Puerto Andratx
A beautiful cove squeezed between mountains. We found a bar, sat outside and soaked up the last of the day’s sun. The sunset was spectacular.
Move over Liam Gallagher – Gran Smith is here!
Valldemossa
A stunning mountain drive took us to Valldemossa, where we wandered cobbled streets and stopped for lunch at Aromas — a tiny café warmed by a roaring fire, very welcome in the cooler mountain air.
Sant Elm
This charming seaside village overlooks Sa Dragonera. We settled at Es Raor and spent an hour listening to the waves, sheltered from the brisk wind.
Son Marroig
Along the winding coast road called Carretera Valldemossa is a building called Son Marroig, the former residence of Archduke Ludwig Salvador of Austria. Behind the residence (which doubles up as a party and wedding venue these days) is a great pit-stop café. Easy to miss, but well worth a stop for its dramatic cliff-top views.
Port de Pollença and Sant Vicenç
A busy but beautiful northern town. We ate at Cerverceria El Alberto, wandered along the seafront and stopped for coffee at Gran Café 1919. The mountains here give everything a dramatic backdrop.
We stopped at Sant Vicenç en route to Pollença. The whole village was shut, but it made for a pleasant walk, and a gentle reminder that out of season really does mean out of season.
Palma
We visited the capital twice: once for an overnight stay ahead of Hannah’s arrival, and again mid-week for some exploring (and, inevitably, shopping – I was outnumbered). There’s a lot more to see here, so next time we’ll stay longer and dig into the history.
Sencelles
We stopped off for a walk in one of the most central village in the island called Sencelles. Rain clouds had passed through about two hours earlier – luckily we missed those and were here for the sunset.
La Reserva de Biniorella
Our HPB base is tucked between the olive trees, barely visible from the road.
No high-rises here, just traditional one and two-storey homes, so everyone gets a sea view. The complex has five pools, and thankfully one of them is indoors; the outdoor water in November is not for the faint-hearted.
Port de Mar
Our nearest village and an easy walk. We visited on our first and last days, eating both times at Café Bar Camp de Mar, great tapas, and meals with beers came to around £16 per person. No complaints.
Gangsta Gran.
Going on holiday with this Gangsta Granny takes its toll on my liver. She’ll tell you she’s teetotal, I have evidence to the contrary!
Hints, Tip and Recommendations
Accommodation
Holiday Property Bond (HPB) apartments £136 per person for seven nights (£19.40 per night). Including access to swimming pool, sauna, tennis courts, games room etc. This is my tenth visit to a HPB property over the past few years, the others can be found here if you are interested in finding out more about these apartments and how to book high quality, low cost breaks I’ve written a page on it here.
Flights
Given we had a 90 year old with us we went for a mid-morning flight on both occasions – which worked out a wee bit more expensive than we would normally pay. We also chose a trolley bag each and priority boarding. The Gatwick to Palma Easyjet flight worked out at £100 each way. Hannah came from Manchester and paid around £58 per flight (including trolley bag). Skyscanner helped book two single flights, one with RyanAir and the other with EAsyJet.
Lounge Access
The lounge cost £0 for Emma and I, and £25 for Doreen. See Travel Hacks for how we managed to do this.
We visited No1 Gatwick North Terminal in the UK and Sala VIP Mediterraneo in the main terminal at Mallorca airport