Scotland – Highlands (Jul 25)
Strike while the iron’s hot, or in this case – the weather!
We noticed that the recent UK heatwave was heading steadily northward, which meant that my favourite wild-camping spot (overlooking the Inner Hebridean “Small Isles” of Eigg, Rum and Muck ) was going to experience two days of record breaking high temperatures around 29° Celsius (84° Fahrenheit)
So we decided to go for it (Emma took a bit of persuasion) and leave the campsite we were staying on in Rye, down on the south east coast of England. Although it was a spur of the moment decision, it turned out to be a good one.
Since Scotland is so much further north, there was also more daylight; a whopping 17 hours sunshine was predicted for each day!
This is one of my favourite place in the whole of the British Isles and I had planned to hold off bringing Emma here until we had more time to explore. However, the conditions were just too perfect…
First stop – Loch Lomond
We stopped at a small campsite on the southern extreme of Loch Lomond and, after finding a space for the car and having popped up the roof tent, we headed off to explore the loch.
We returned the next morning for a swim before breakfast. Despite the glorious weather we had the beach to ourselves.
Highland route via Glen Coe
The weather turned out to be as good as forecast, so we took a slow drive towards our destination, stopping regularly along the way
We went for a leg stretch at Glen Coe and a dip in the water where three rivers meet
This route is one of my favourites, so it was so nice to be able to share it with Emma and experience this place at its very best.
Traigh – the coast road
As we’d taken our time getting here, and with every campsite in the area fully booked due to the weather, I didn’t hold much hope of us being able to find a wild camping place at my favourite spot on the coast road between Arisaig and Morar – a Beach called Traigh. However, as we turned the corner a Peugeot 5008 sized gap was there for us to pull into – no waiting, no hunting, luck was on our side.
So within minutes we set up camp.
We then donned our cycle clothes and headed off back to Arisaig where we had an 8pm table booked in The Old Library restaurant.
Trying our best to keep up appearances 🤣, we switched clothes before heading in…
The cycle back was absolute bliss, with the sunset casting its orange glow across the sky.
As is the case whenever wild-camping here, we met some like-minded, adventurous people.
Pasna (I’ve probably spelt that wrong) a lady from Bearsden near Glasgow was here with her daughter and daughter’s friend for a night. That’s them below heading back from a days paddle boarding. She has a humongous thirst for adventure and radiates enthusiasm.
Lewis was camped along side us and was here for the same reason as we were, drawn by this region’s stunning beauty, but being a Scot had less of a journey. He owns what appears to be the world’s highest roof tent – perched on the top of his tall camper-van. He needs a double extension ladder to reach it! Awesome views.
Sunday – Cycle and Boat trip to Skye
The next morning we took a swim before breakfast – bracing, but far from the coldest water we’ve experienced.
These are the best moments in life!
After breakfast we headed by bike for Marraig to catch the ferry to Skye. The ride took around 45 minutes, with a brief stop at the Silver Sands of Morar.
The route was sufficiently undulating to reward every (fairly gentle) climb with a corresponding downhill free-wheel. The cycle route took us away from the main road for the most part, and once we joined the main road into Mallaig there was a parallel cycle lane – always a bonus.
We were early for the ferry, so after buying tickets (£3.85 per person return, including bikes) we had time to cycle into the town to grab a coffee from a cute converted horse box.
The ferry to Armadale was busy, due in part to a coach load of American visitors. The short trip across the water was made memorable as we were lucky enough to pass a huge pod of dolphins. They seemed to be enjoying the unusually warm weather and treated us to a display of jumping and swimming by the boat.
The Skipper was quite amazing, and understood the moment and mood of his passengers.
As soon as the he was aware of the pod of Dolphin he slowed the ferry and changed course a little so we were in their direct path. He then stopped the ship completely. We waited, watching in amazement until these majestic creatures swam right up to the ship, around us and back again. They appeared to be playing, swimming back and forth for what felt like ages.
Eventually, and when a small group headed off, the engines started up again and we resumed our journey to Armadale. It was only then a small pod came up close to the bow of the ship, directly beneath where Emma and I were stood. They appeared to be trying to swim the bow wave, it was a magical moment.
Time was limited on this trip, so our visit to Skye was more about the boat ride than touring the island.
We cycled to a small cafe for freshly made smoothies which didn’t take long to demolish. The sun was so strong we had to seek out the shade. Then we had to retrace our steps to catch the ferry back to Marraig, stopping again at the Silver Sands.
On the way back we were passed by The Lancashire Fusilier, an old steam train, which runs from Fort William to Mallaig, on the West Highland Line. An added bonus, as if we needed another one today!
Homeward bound
Our final stopover was back to the same campsite at Loch Lomond, where the weather was starting to turn.
Our journey homeward started early the next morning.
As we left Scotland, it started to rain which remained the case until we had passed the English Lakes.
Great memories of an amazing two days that will last a long time and be real hard to beat!
Hints and Tips
Loch Lomond Campsite – Lagganbeg camping and caravan park a bit pricey but fantastic location close to the shore of Loch Lomond. However, if you are more organised than us and don’t go last minute on a busy weekend, then try this link to the official Loch Lomond and Trossachs website. Camping in this relatively small but popular area around the loch and neighbouring Trossachs is completely free between October and March, but you need to get a permit – this is simply so the authorities know the numbers of people camping, and don’t have hordes of people descending and ruining it! There is a small charge (around £4) for camping in summer months, but that pays for maintenance and provision of nearby toilets at car parks etc. I’ve used this many times, they also have great staff you can talk to my phone, 01389 722001 to point you in the right direction, book a camping spot (up to four weeks in advance) or even help with private campsite details when their facilities are fully booked.
Wild camping location – Triagh Beach, absolutely magnificent spot with great views across to the Small Isles.
There are also two clean toilet pods at the northern end of the beach to accommodate visitors and campers. Please ALWAYS leave a donation, this is a locally funded facility.
Restaurant – The Old Library Restaurant in Arisaig. Fish Fish Fish.