Dalyan, Turkey
OMG. This has been the most spectacular and unexpected find.
A last minute cheap flight, and ridiculously great value accommodation brought me to the gorgeous riverside village of Dalyan for a few days.
It was a reconnaissance mission to establish if this is worth coming back with Emma…
It most definitely is!
It’s a tough job, sounding a place out, but someone has to do it!
The complete absence of high rise buildings and major development means that huge chunks of this region remain a pristine paradise, jaw droppingly beautiful.
The entire place is teeming with wildlife too.
Olive trees line the footpath along the river and the sounds of cicadas are everywhere.
Every evening flocks of birds take their turn to navigate along the river, presumably heading home to roost, whilst bats emerge to feed on insects. Unfortunately, given the river delta and nearby lake, the inevitable mosquitoes seek out unprotected skin… luckily I’d packed my repellent so no problem!
Almost everyone I met here appeared to be “Dalyan” devotee, returning year after year to experience its laid back atmosphere and stunning natural beauty.
I think I’m am now the newest member of this not-so-secret club, and will almost certainly return, and soon!
The Tombs and Amphitheatre
The ancient tombs carved into the rock (around 4th centuries BC) are the first sign that this is a very special place. The 1st century Roman amphitheatre just a stone’s throw away, is the second.
The views from these ancient monuments looking over the river delta are truly breathtaking.
There are more donkeys roaming about the ruins than there are humans – oh and don’t expect much in the way of organisation. If you come here, take a photo of the layout map on arrival, as signage and information once inside is pretty non existent.
Being only a short 30 minute walk from my hotel, I took the short journey here by foot. At the half way point I needed to cross the Dalyan Strait – by ferry.
There is no timetable to grapple with here, as the skipper just goes back and forth all day, crossing on demand.
It was only 20 Lira (about 36p) so great value, and a wonderful experience t’boot.
On the way back I got chatting to a chap called Hilmi from Istanbul, who was over here on business.
He and his mates gave me a lift back to Dalyan saving me an uncomfortable 15 minute walk in 35 degree heat!
Like every other Turkish national I have met on this trip, he was genuinely warm, friendly and helpful.
Earlier, we’d noticed a critter on the bonnet of his car – now that’s BIG.
Wonderful wildlife.
The combination of lake, river delta and sea, has resulted in an abundance of water wildlife.
Indeed, take a stroll anywhere along the river, grab a coffee (or beer) and just wait….
Within minutes turtles and fish of all shapes and sizes swim past, some bigger than dustbin lids. Even at night the sight of a passing turtle is something else!
Turtle Beach – Iztuzu
I spent a brilliant day at Turtle Beach, Iztuzu, a stretch of golden sand that owes its continued existence largely to the efforts of one remarkable woman: an eccentric English conservationist known locally as Captain June.
Thanks to her fierce determination, what could have become yet another overdeveloped tourist trap is now a protected haven. Hotels that had already begun construction were halted in their tracks, and the entire bay was saved. Today, the area remains largely untouched — wild, pristine, and all the better for it.
Captain June lived to be 100 and is buried in a Muslim cemetery in town. She’s still held in deep respect here, her legacy remains. A small monument to her stands in a prime spot beneath the ancient Lycian tombs, a fitting tribute to the woman who took on developers and won.
Iztuzu Beach is also one of the most important nesting sites for endangered loggerhead turtles. Here, humans and turtles coexist.
Just metres from where I was lounging for the day were two turtle nests, clearly marked with protective triangular cages to warn off beachgoers. A simple reminder that this beach isn’t just for us.
It’s astonishing what one person can do when they decide to take a stand.
There is also a Turtle hospital at the far end of the beach which nurses any injured creature found back to health.
Boat trip to Ekincik bay
This was the highlight of the trip, and something I’d definitely recommend.
The cost included a huge BBQ, which was cooked for us when we dropped anchor for a few hours at an isolated bay.
The whole experience lasted several hours and involved multiple stops at isolated bays where we all went in for a dip.
I spent most of the day on the upper deck with Steve and Linda from North London. They have another boat trip organised for later this week which includes some island hopping on a tall ship.
Market day – Köycegiz
Heavily promoted by the local cooperative was a trip to the opposite shore of Köycegiz lake, and a village by the same name.
They have a market there every Monday, so I booked a trip. It killed two birds with one stone, I saw the lake and the market in one hit – great value for money.
It kind of reminded me a little of Virpazar in Montenegro.
I met a lovely couple called Steve and Linda on the boat. They have been here before a few times before and gave me a number of hints and tips. Steve is incredibly enthusiastic and has a massive zest for life. It was great to meet someone with such energy! We hit it off straight away.
These guys have just started an instagram page, from where I stole this image.
Unfortunately, only being here a few days I couldn’t follow up on all of their recommendations, but will try to do so when I return with Emma.
One of the places they suggested was Radar Point, which they had visited a few days earlier. I just have to come back for that! Oh and Çandir Teras, which does amazing Turkish Breakfasts – with a stunning view.
I’ve also been collecting recommendations from other travellers and now have a long list to go through on my return.
I’ve also discovered that it’s possible to head over to Rhodes by boat for around €35 so although convoluted, could provide me with an opportunity to visit my nephew without incurring stupid flight prices.
Hints and Tips
Best evening meal of the trip – VOME
This was a lovely little restaurant called VOME, which was perfectly situated across the river from the ancient tombs. Chilled wine, and a lovely meal, overfilled cushions and calming ambience.
It was a perfect place to watch the sun set and read a book.
The diners had a magical moment when a huge turtle surfaced for air just beneath our feet.
Best Beer Stop – Paradise Hotel
At the far end of town, up river, almost to the final road (where one of the ferry crossings are), is a lovely little place called ‘Paradise’, and they are not wrong.
Few people venture up this far, but I clocked a happy hour sign selling beers for 100 lira (about £1.65), so this ended up being where I went for a sundowner.
The added bonus, look down and the water is teaming with wildlife.
Best Breakfast – Caria Hotel
This was my go-to place for a breakfast and cup of good coffee. It’s handy for the boat trips and simply watching the world go by.
Best Boat tour – Dolphin Boat Tours
The prices are all similar seeing the boats are in the local co-operative. Not much price competition.
In the end I went with Dolphin Tours as they “didn’t” have any music on board (some do) and their tour appear to be a little more relaxed, going to quieter coves.
Accommodation – Legend of Dalyon Hotel
Since I was travelling solo, I didn’t splash out, but I also didn’t want to end up somewhere without a pool or the option for breakfast. After a bit of searching, I found the Legend of Dalyan Hotel.
A room with a double bed came in at around £40 per night, the same price whether you’re solo or sharing. Great value, especially considering it’s been recently refurbished and how helpful and friendly the staff were.
I only had breakfast at the hotel once, preferring to explore other options most mornings. That said, the one I did try was perfectly decent and very reasonably priced.
I didn’t spend much time at the hotel itself, but when I did, I found myself in good company. A lovely group had semi-permanently taken over the table next to the bar: Matt and ‘V’, visiting from their home base in Indonesia with their teenage kids and Matt’s parents. Justin, like me, was travelling alone, and Lizel had extended her stay after her boyfriend flew back to the UK. They were all incredibly welcoming, and on the rare occasions I turned up, I was made to feel very much part of the gang. It was a real pleasure to meet them.
The room itself was just right for the kind of trip I was doing, actually better than many I’ve stayed in over the years. The air conditioning worked very well, which was a blessing with daytime temperatures nudging 40°C.
Sure, there are probably more upmarket places closer to the river, but this one suited me perfectly. It was a comfortable, well-located base, just a short stroll from the centre, and helpfully, not plagued by mosquitoes thanks to its position slightly away from the riverbank.
Would I stay here again? Very possibly. That said, I’m also tempted to look into some of the riverside villas, which could work out cost-effective when shared. One company I’ll definitely be checking out is Agnitravel.com, who seem to have a good range of villas in the area that looked very appealing.
Airport Lounge – Dalaman Airport
Great quality, better than many UK lounges….pretty empty. Usual top for gaining access to lounges here:…
Airline – WizzAir
I only needed hand luggage for this trip, my single 40x30x20 bag was more than enough for four days away. That meant the flight cost just £27 each way.
Even better, I used up some of my WizzAir credits I’d built up over the past few months. I’ve shared a few tips on how to do this in [this link], it’s a really simple trick that gets me three to four completely free flights every year!
And just to be clear: I don’t work for WizzAir and I don’t get any commission, I just think it’s worth sharing with family and friends so you can make the most of it too.