Off the beaten track – cycling in France.
France is a dream destination for cycling enthusiasts, not just because of its sheer size, but also due to its relatively low population compared to other European countries. If you travel outside the peak tourist season, you’ll find vast stretches of countryside where it feels like you have the whole place to yourself, miles of road, uninterrupted views, and plenty of elbow room.
What makes France truly special is the stunning diversity of its landscapes. From the sun-drenched shores of the Mediterranean to the rugged, windswept coast along the Atlantic, the country is visually stunning. You’ll pass through rugged mountains, rolling hills, huge forests, and expansive plains. It’s no wonder France is one of the most popular destinations on Earth, drawing both travellers and tourists from across the globe.
Traveling by bicycle brings a deeper connection to all of this. The pace slows. You notice things much more. Every sense is engaged, turning every journey into something truly immersive and unforgettable.
Below are a few of my favourite memories from a cycling adventure I shared with my son a few years ago, a trip full of quiet moments, laughter, and discovery.
Lac d’Aiguebelette
Tucked away between Vif and Albertville, two towns that feature on the 2025 Tour de France route, is the picturesque Lac d’Aiguebelette. It was the furthest point east we reached on that particular journey, and it remains one of my most cherished discoveries in France.
This little alpine gem, nestled at the foot of the Chartreuse Mountains and not far south of Geneva, is famed for its pristine, emerald-green waters. The lake has long banned nearly all motorised watercraft, making it one of the cleanest in Europe.
This whole region, dotted with natural parks, lakes, and forested mountains, feels like it was purpose-built for cyclists and campers. We pitched our tent right at the water’s edge, it was nothing short of idyllic.
Sait-Jean-du-Gard
Nestled in the Cévennes foothills, Saint-Jean-du-Gard is a sleepy village with a river running right through its heart. Once an important centre for silk production, the village still holds traces of its industrious past in the old stone buildings. These days, it’s a place of calm, riverside cycle tracks, and shady campsites which make it perfect for a trip like this
We spent our days meandering along the river by bike, stopping every so often for a refreshing dip in a secluded swimming hole. There’s something magical about cycling here, beside the river and below the trees,
Gorges du Tarn
As you head out of the Cévennes and begin the journey toward the heart of France, you pass through the breathtaking Gorges du Tarn. Carved by the Tarn River, this deep limestone canyon snakes through the landscape. The cliffs tower overhead, and tiny medieval villages cling to the rock faces.
It’s a paradise for adventurers, winding roads for cyclists, quiet trails for walkers, and waters for kayaking. Paddling through the gorge offers an entirely different perspective, ancient stone bridges overhead, and peace all around – other than the noise from other kayakers!
Monts d’Auvergne
Southwest of Clermont-Ferrand lies one of my absolute favourite regions in all of France—the Monts d’Auvergne. This is an ancient chain of extinct volcanoes blanketed in forests, fields, and wildflowers.
The area feels timeless.
I’ve stopped off here more times than I can count, and each visit draws me back like a magnet. The landscape is ever changing, sometimes soft and rolling, sometimes stark and dramatic, but always beautiful. Well-marked cycle tracks crisscross the hills, and campsites are scattered throughout. This is also the home of Volvic water, filtered through the volcanic rock.
Camargue
Down in the Rhône Delta, where the land gives way to marshes and the sky feels ten times wider, lies the Camargue. This unique, untamed region is unlike anywhere else in France. It’s flat, gloriously flat, which makes it perfect for long, easy cycling days. But it’s the wildlife that really steals the show.
Flamingoes wade through the lagoons, white horses gallop on open plains, and the famous local black bulls, graze in the wetlands. There’s a raw beauty here.
Provence and Cassis
Whilst here we looked up good friends in their summer home near Aux-en-Provence. We didn’t do too much cycling here, but I just have to mention Cassis here, an absolutely stunning old world Mediterranean town – a short drive from Marseille. A must do visit if in this area! Don’t miss it….
Ambert
Now here’s one that wasn’t on any must-see lists, Ambert. It landed on our itinerary for one reason only: my son’s half-uncle and cousins lives here. But what a happy detour it turned out to be.
Tucked in the Livradois-Forez Regional Park, Ambert is surrounded by rolling hills and farmland. It may not be a tourist magnet, but that’s its charm. The town’s most unusual feature is its circular town hall.
The surrounding countryside is perfect for long bike rides. Sometimes, the best stops are the ones you never planned.
Orléans
As we began our journey back towards England, we stopped in Orléans, the historic heart of the old Kingdom of France and a city forever associated with Joan of Arc. She famously liberated it from English rule in 1429, and reminders of her presence are scattered throughout.
We camped about 30 minutes south of the city, but thanks to France’s excellent cycle path network, we were able to roll right into the centre with ease. Cycling along the banks of the Loire, past vineyards and châteaux, it was the perfect way to say goodbye to France, a land that always seems to enchant, no matter how often you visit.
